Before arriving in Sana'a I had done a bit of reading on the city and knew, in the abstract, that it is 2400 meters above sea level. I was happy, since the high altitude meant that not only is the weather just about perfect (in the 70s or 80s during the day, and down into the 50s at night), but Sana'a doesn't contend with pesky things like malaria that are an issue in lower elevations. So far so good.
What I had failed to appreciate, however, were the physical impacts of living this high up: jet lag isn't just jet lag, it's compounded by adjustment to the altitude; I am embarrassingly winded walking the two (short) flights of stairs to my office; my heart feels like it's beating much faster (or maybe that's just the anxiety of beginning a new job?); I feel like I am always teetering on the brink of being dehydrated no matter how much water I drink; relatedly, I have been unable to prevent foot and leg cramps at night; my appetite is really suppressed; and my sinuses are so dry they are bleeding. Apparently, it takes two weeks to two months for your body to fully adjust to this. As if all of this weren't enough of a downer, the BBC tells me that I will age faster as a result of living here:
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/health/1940046.stm
As for other observations, I'm afraid they will have to wait. I still haven't broken out of the cage -- I've been in a 4-day training at my office ever since arriving and it has dominated my schedule. But the weekend is coming (that's Thursday and Friday in my part of the world) and I am planning to go on a couple of excursions around town with colleagues. And yes, I will try to take my camera...
friend, it's good to read you. wish i'd seen you before you left. if only you could get a hold of some coca tea there, you'd be better off with the altitude. but there may be something similar and natural that people take there for changes in altitude. maybe finding out is the first step out of that cage.
ReplyDeleteSorry to read about your discomfort. I hope you end up recovering quickly. But stay away from the qat. I hear it's addictive.
ReplyDeleteJeez. I suppose we finally dropped the ball on seeing each other in NYC! Modern life. I've missed it (or am out of it, probably both)...are you settling in Yemen?
ReplyDeleteHi John -- yes, we will have to travel a little further afield than the UWS to grab a cup of coffee. As for your question, "settled" is way too strong a word, but I will be here for at least a year. Hope to see you when I'm visting NYC next!
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